People, Places: Raison d’être

Recession Free Wine Country

Sitting in the warm sun on a perfect fall day, I surveyed acres of vineyards still polluted with purple grapes yet to be harvested and green leaves that will turn golden yellow shortly. In the backdrop of this scene are mountains that look as though they were painted underneath a brilliant blue sky. The natural beauty of wine country is captivating.

Outside of Napa, you can drive country roads that offer solitude and refresh the soul. This is the real deal, and it can’t be replicated. I prefer Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Valley over Napa. They represent the roads less traveled to a degree. They are a bit further out of the mainstream of weekend warriors and less commercial. You can find plenty of small independent family vineyards that usually only sell wine from the tasting room rather than via brokers.

Each tasting room is unique including the view of the landscape, the personality of the staff, and the décor. Some are rustic; others are elegant. Usually the staff asks where you are from, whether or not you have tasted the wine before. They will explain the grapes, the characteristics of the wine etc. Most vineyards charge about $10 for a tasting. The fee is frequently waived if you buy a bottle of wine. It’s generally a friendly environment where you can strike up a conversation with other visitors without hesitation.

Another reason why I prefer tasting outside of Napa  is because you can have a very peaceful picnic lunch on the grounds of vineyard.  Many have picnic tables and don’t mind if you sit to enjoy a sandwich that you’ve brought from somewhere else. It’s best to ask first to be polite. Some will even allow you to take your tasting outside to enjoy.

By far, one of my favorite lunch stops is Jim Town. It’s been 3 weeks since my trip to wine country and I still think about the sandwich I bought. Fig, prosciutto, Point Ryes Blue cheese and crusty French bread. I’ve tied to replicate the sandwich twice, but it’s not the same. My mouth is still watering. I had a picnic lunch that day at Stevens. I tried Charbona wine for the first time. It’s a rare grape that was brought to Napa decade ago by Italian immigrants. There are now less then 20 acres left of the grape in Napa, so I was told at the tasting. (Note: Grill 23 in Boston has Charbona on its extensive wine list.)

Calistoga is quaint, but gentrified. The architecture nonetheless gives you an idea of old school California and what life was like at a slower pace years ago. We stayed at the Clarion Lodge for about $300 night. It was within walking distance to town and near a state park with hiking trails that overlooked the valley. The rooms were clean and comfortable.

Wine country is a great escape from reality. For example, there is no sign of a recession in wine country. The vineyards command a high price for a bottle of wine. Despite what I’ve read about the wine industry struggling, it appears to be quite healthy in CA. Yes, you could argue that we visited higher-end vineyards, but certainly not the Opus One’s of the industry. Papa P’s for example averages about $40 a bottle – among the best Pinot’s I’ve tasted, but still $40 a bottle is extravagant. Yes, I bought a bottle. It’s vacation after all.

On my last day, I had a relaxing lunch at Solbar which has earned any hype. We sat outside in the courtyard.  There are brown wicker chairs with sage green coushins.  You hear the sound of water trickling via a near by water fountain. The swimming pool with cozy cabanas was also next to our seating area. All of this surrounded by the natural beauty of the valley. I savored every bite and minute. I was in the final stretch of vacation. I would enjoy a lovely drive back to SFO in time for a red eye home. It was a painful transition, but the memories are lasting.

December 16, 2010 Posted by aburnis | Food, Uncategorized, Wine | California, wine country | Leave a comment