Back to school versus back to work
Note: I have been writing about places, but I’d also like to capture observations about people in my blog series too.
My day started a bit earlier that usual yesterday. I left the house at 7 a.m. to catch a train to NYC for a series of
meetings. As I approached the Davis Square T stop, a large group of junior high students exited. They were wearing uniforms and carrying backpacks that would soon be filled with home work. The boys were decked out in maroon button-down shirts with a tie and dark slacks. The girls wore skirts and blouses in a similar color scheme. It was a lively group that buzzed with energy. I smiled and instantly recalled both the excitement and anxiety of the first day of school of years past. I remember that I carefully selected an outfit the night before and talked to friends to determine if we would have any classes together. We would also make plans to sit together at lunch , and we surely had met by third period to pass notes to each other dishing the latest gossip. I suppose kids send texts now. Note writing is a dying art. I still have many notes from high school, and I get a kick out of reading them on occasion.
I was happy for the students, and I hope they had a great first day of school. Ah, the carefree days of childhood. I sound like my mother.
The atmosphere was completely different when I arrived in South Station. As I waited for my train, I observed a flood of people arriving via commuter rail. Unlike the lively children en route to school, the adults were quiet and lacked visible signs of energy as they returned to work on a Monday morning. The contrast was striking and a bit sad. Although, I suppose this narrow view may not be an accurate impression. I understand it may have been a rough morning for the parents who had to adjust to the back to school routine.
The adults were also wearing uniforms. The standard for men is apparently khaki slacks with a light blue button down or golf shirt. Women dress a bit more stylishly with a variety of summer skirts, dresses and the occasional suit. The adults walked briskly in silence with limited eye contact. Most seemed to be uninterested in their surroundings and were distracted by ipods and of course phones. Perhaps it was still to early for most, and they perk up after a high dose of caffeine.
I did see one man walking with a smile on his face, and I wondered what he was thinking about. Strange to think that he stood out because he was smiling. Although, I was smiling too. I have always enjoyed train stations particularly those in Europe. People are coming and going. Perhaps for vacation, to visit family or friends or for work. I love the hustle and bustle.
I decided that I had enough of people watching, so I read the NY Times until my train arrived. When I arrived in Penn Station, I was energized and ready for the day.
You can face the day smiling or frowning. The choice is yours.
90 Minute Tour: Boston Harbor Islands
If you follow my twitter updates, then you now I recently signed up for Groupon and find the bargain offers to be addictive. Although, I have actually only made two purchases, so I’m mostly a window shopper.
I have always wanted to tour the Boston Harbor Islands, so I could not resist purchasing a 90 minute tour offered by Flagship Adventures for $20. My friend Kathy and I took the tour this afternoon. Our Friday afternoon timing was perfect. There were only 5 of us on the RIBCRAFT which seats about 9 people. Given the intimate size, it felt more like an outing with friends than a tourist activity. Upon boarding, I asked the Captain which was the best seat. While every seat was just fine, he directed me to the front of the boat for the most excitement. Like a roller coaster I suppose.
The craft was essentially an industrial strength rubber dinghy with twin 225 horse power engines. Top speed on the water is 47 MPH. I’m pretty sure we came close to that today. We were air-born a few times as we cut through choppy waves rolling in with high tide and also thanks to Tropical Storm Danny I imagine.
It was so much fun that it occurred to me that if a lawyer takes the tour s/he will probably ruin it for everyone else with restrictions on speed, waivers etc. Please don’t!
The tour included historical commentary about many of the islands we passed. It was quite interesting to learn about the historical and present use of the islands. On one island, people live cottages without running water and electricity. The cottages have been passed down for generations, but once the present owners die, the cottages will be torn down due to an arrangement with the national park service. Another island housed Italian POWs during WWII. Some of the islands used to have hotels around the turn of the century. Spectacle Island used to be a garbage dump and which polluted the harbor. It has since been cleaned up, but I doubt I’m swim at there beaches near it. Another island offers programs for at-risk city youth as well as homeless people. There are forts and stories about ghosts which I’m sure add to the ambiance for over night camping and fire side stories.
I recommend that you read up on the history of the islands which are part of the national park system. Many of the islands are accessible by regular ferry trips from Boston. Touring the islands is a perfect, low-cost activity for summer. I plan to return to explore further by foot.
Oh! I almost forgot to mentioned that we had an unbelieve view of airplanes landing at Logan Airport. We paused near one of the runways, and the airplanes flew right over our heads. That was a bonus on the way back to the dock.
Manchester-by-the-Sea’s Singing Beach
My schedule is pretty flexible these days, so I have to wonder why it has taken until August to figure out that I should work mornings and evenings and spend afternoons at the beach!
Well, this week I finally came to my senses, and on two occasions, I relaxed to the soothing sound of waves gently crashing on Singing Beach! It’s one of my favorite Cape Anne beaches.
Singing beach is about 30 miles north of Boston. With light traffic, it takes about 45 minutes door to door. Parking ($25) at this beach is very limited even during the week. You can park in town and walk about 5 minutes to the beach. Better yet, I recommend that you take the commuter rail to Manchester-by-the-Sea and walk the same distance. It’s a quaint town, so you can also browse through boutiques before or after enjoying the beach. There is a snack bar at the beach, but I usually by a sandwich at the local deli and have a picnic lunch.
Singing beach is at the end of a beautiful residential neighborhood. Multi-million dollar homes and trees line the beach which is probably less than a half mile long. Looking straight out to the horizon dotted with sailboats, it feels like you are on an island. The water is clean and reflects many shades throughout the day. There are also a few small rocky islands not far from shore. 
The clear blue/green water was a brisk 66 degrees, so it stings your feet upon entry. Nonetheless, it is refreshing on an 80 degree day. It’s funny to watch everyone have the same physical reaction to the cold water temperature. Actually, just adults. Apparently kids have no idea how cold the water is. They jump right in.
Oh, I should warn that this is a family beach for the most part. On Thursday, there were literally bus loads of kids. They were mostly on the opposite end of the beach, so it was still pretty quiet near me. I intermittently read, walked, napped and swam throughout the day.
It was a lovely day.
A Perfect New England Weekend
On a bitterly cold winter day when you are digging your car out of three feet of snow and ice, it is easy to forget why you live in New England. The sky is often gray, sunset is around 4 p.m, and the wind is so cold and fierce you get brain freeze just from walking to your car. Even skiing isn’t a justifiable reason when you can fly out West to a resort.
Much like the agony of childbirth, these painful memories are erased when the sun emerges. While I’ve enjoyed summer, I have to admit this past weekend was a great reminder of why I love living in Boston.
I drove to Newport, Rhode Island on Friday afternoon. Undeterred by the traffic on 93 South, I completed the drive in less than two hours. My original plan was to walk the cliff walk, but I forgot to bring my sneakers, so I executed Plan B. I made my way to Ocean Drive and found a peaceful place to sit near Brenton Point. The sun was bright and the air was hot as I watched mega yachts sailing along the horizon. I meandered back to Gooseberry Beach for better access to the water, so that I could cool off. No visit to Newport is complete without a visit to Ocean Drive or the Cliff Walk. Few towns on the East Coast offer such a view .
In the evening, I attended a private cocktail reception at the Newport Shipyard to kickoff the Bucket race. The Bucket race involves mega yachts, so you meet people from around the world, and it’s a great opportunity to view beautiful boats including Athena which is the largest private sailing yacht. I was just about speechless as I stood below it. It’s an unbelievable boat.
My friend Cory Silken is a photographer who specializes in nautical images. Check out the photos on his website to see what I’m talking about.
I did not participate in the Bucket race, but I was in town to crew Firefly in the Doc Cuddy Regatta in Bristol, Rhode Island. Why race on a mega yacht when you can race on a classic yacht? It’s my second season racing on Firefly, and I have to admit this was our most exciting race so far. We came in second place on Sunday missing the first place slot by about three seconds!
After the race in Bristol, we sailed Firefly back to Newport. It was a beautiful day to be on the water. The photo to the right is a port side view.
Upon arrival in Newport, I dashed off to Wellfleet to visit friends vacationing on the Cape. Text messages indicated a feast underway, and my presence was kindly requested. My friends prepared the best surf & turf I’ve had in a long time. The steak was juicy, and the freshly steamed lobster barely fit on my plate. Its claws were about the size as my hands! Oh, and the butter!! My friend added a variety of herbs to it for an extra kick. Delicious! Once again, great food, wine and thoughtful, generous friends that make life memorable.
Oh, but wait, there is more! Wellfleet is a lovely area on the Cape. I actually had not been that far north past Chatham in about 5 years. What a mistake. It’s a beautiful area and seemingly less developed. The house my friends rented has a 180 degree view of a pond which I could see from my bedroom. I was awaken by a beautiful sunrise which I normally avoid with room darkening shades.
A short walk from the house was a stunning private beach. I was the only person there for hours. It was absolutely peaceful except for the occasional attach of biting green flies. 🙂 I can’t believe how lucky I am to live two hours away from such a beautiful, calming place.
Before I made the drive back to Boston, we stopped at a local clam shack for, well, what else- Wellfleet clams and scallops! Perfection.
It was a perfect way to enjoy a summer weekend in New England. I’ll have to remember this next January.
Am I a sailor yet?
The first time I sailed was about 12 years ago while I was living in Pittsburgh. A friend casually mentioned that a woman in his office was planning a sailing trip on the Chesapeake. I always wanted to learn how to sail, so I suggested that he ask her if we could go. Having planned vacations, I was familiar with the difficulty of getting people to commit with money. As I suspected, there was space available for us!
The sailing trip began at a marina on Solomon’s Island in Maryland. We made the five hour drive after work. The crew was to meet at the Tiki Bar the night before our sail. We only knew Sue the organizer, so we looked forward to meeting our new friends and our Captain.
I’ll never forget meeting Captain Dave. As luck would have it, he turned out to be the salty dog character at the Tiki Bar, with a gruff beard and dark tussled hair, that had one too many MaiTai’s. I of course avoided eye contact and ignored whatever words he slurred when he sat in the chair next to me that my friend temporarily vacated for a trip to the restroom. We had no idea he was our Captain at the time because we had not yet met any of the crew. You can imagine our surprise when we were introduced. Ultimately, Dave was harmless, but he was definitely a character with many stories. I heard he has since retired from his civilian Navy job (Physicist iirc), sold his boat and is doing well playing poker tournaments in Vegas.
Captain Dave was used to racing and winning on Krugerrand (a Morgan 36), so my introduction to sailing involved him yelling a bunch of commands that I did not understand. I barely knew the difference between Port and Starboard. He didn’t yell out of anger or frustration, it’s just what was he was used to from his competitive racing days. Nothing personal. Just urgency. I learned a few new things about sailing and the boat on each trip, but I admit we weren’t a hard working crew. To this day, I still enjoy sitting at the bow or under the main if I not at the helm. 
Over the years, I sailed the Chesapeake a few times each summer with the same group of people that I met on that initial sailing trip. I also made two trips to the Caribbean. During the first trip, we sailed around the BVI on a Beneteau 50 which is a common charter boat. On the second next trip, we sailed around the lessor Antilles including St Bart’s and Saint Martin on a catamaran. By the way, it’s worth noting that I had the best dinner ever at the Fish Pot. Well, up to that point in my life anyway.
I thoroughly enjoyed both sailing trips, and I could write detailed blogs about each. Ah, ok. Just a few short notes. Snorkeling is better in the BVI. I suspect this is because there are more moorings and the coral reefs are protected from anchors, but what do I know. Painkillers at the Soggy Dollar on Jost Van Dyke. The Baths. The Caves. Willie T’s. Enough said. St. Bart’s is exactly what you expect it to be except even more colorful.
I moved to Boston in 2002, and I’ve since spent many summer weekends on a boat in Newport, the sailing capital of the world and former home of America’s Cup. You want to sail? This town is drenched with experienced sailors, beautiful boats, and captivating views. It’s a small town, yet it is surprisingly international.
Fortunately, many of my friends are experienced sailors, and I have learned quite a bit from them over the years. They are very patient teachers. I’ve learned about navigation, maintenance, tide charts, safety, troubleshooting, and of course knots. I am grateful for all they have shared with me over the years. Last summer, I started racing on my friend’s 1926 Herreshoff S Class boat. On a classic yacht with a wooden mast, you don’t want to screw up. I was essentially ballast for the first race or two, but now I’m considered to be experienced crew. Progress! 🙂
I’ve learned quite a bit since my first sailing trip, yet when asked if I am a sailor, I always hesitate to answer. Compared to most of my friends and the sailors I meet? No. Learning about sailing is endless, but in my heart I know the answer is yes. Most sailors would tell you there is always something new to learn.
Biking along the Minuteman rail-trail
This afternoon I biked the historic Minuteman rail-trail from Davis Square to Lexington Center. I was pleasantly surprised by the diverse scenery along the way, and I wish I had brought my camera. When I lived in Back Bay, I used to ride along the Esplanade, and I thought that route along the Charles River would be hard to beat. I was wrong.
The Minuteman trail officially begins in Arlington, but you can enter it from Davis if you follow the disconnected path. The first mile or two is probably the most crowed with foot traffic and frequent stops to cross the street, but once you reach Spy Pond it’s mostly bikers and not that crowded.
I did not consult a map, so most of the time, I had no idea where I was or how far I had biked. Although, I now know the entire trail is about 12 miles one way. There should be mile makers along the way, but I guess regular users know the distances between certain locations.
The trail passes through many historic neighborhoods, so you see a lot of backyards with gardens along the way. Children who live along the path have it made. Not only do they have a great place to ride their bikes, but they also can enjoy one of several football and soccer fields and parks. I saw many tree houses too!
I am curious about the swamp I saw just before the meadows. The picture doesn’t do justice. The pond water is pistachio green and as frothy as a latte. It was completely still and seamed to choke the life out of everything except for the cattails a few stray Lilly pads. Strange. Too much algae? I have no idea.
I would love to explore the trails in along the meadows, but not on a humid, rainy day such as today. Given the natural surroundings, the trail is already polluted with gnats, mosquitoes and who know what else was flying around. Hard to avoid getting one in your eye, mouth or hair. Although, wearing sun glasses and keeping my mouth shut did help.
Next time I’ll ride the entire length of the trail, and perhaps I’ll stop in Lexington for lunch along the way.
First Impressions of Davis Square
My first week in Davis has been positive. The street I live on is fairly quiet, and I certainly don’t miss the motorcycles that used to pass by my Newbury Street apartment. Compared to Back Bay, Davis Square is a bohemian neighborhood. Davis is lively, trendy and aims to please. It’s small, but jam packed with personality marked by interesting independently owned shops, cafes and boutiques. I can’t wait to investigate further.
It’s certainly not hard to find a venue for live music. For example, U2 played at the Somerville Theater a few months ago to promote their upcoming 360 tour.
One of the first things I noticed right away is that people are very friendly. In this respect, it reminds me of my hometown- Pittsburgh. I’m quite used to people saying hello as they pass you on the street or striking up a conversation in any venue.
I stopped by McKinnons this week. I was very impressed with the quality of meat, and I can’t imagine I’ll shop anywhere else for meat. I hear Dave’s Fresh Pasta is fabulous. I look forward to it.
I’m addicted to Mint Oreo ice cream and unfortunately for me, there is a J P Licks in walking distance!!!
There is a farmer’s market in the Day Street parking lot on Wednesdays. It’s small, but there is a nice variety of bread, cheese and fresh produce.
There was a street festival in front of Redbone’s earlier this week to promote biking. I think that was the purpose. I didn’t stay long, but I appreciated the live music and festive atmosphere. The crowd was diverse- more so than Back Bay.
I already received a $50 parking ticket for street cleaning. At least I got that out of the way.
I like my new neighborhood, and I’m glad there is so much to explore. I look forward to finding my new favorite place for X, Y and Z.
Good Bye Back Bay, Hello Davis Square!
Well, it’s official. I moved to the “suburbs” of Boston last week. Although, I’m sure the residents of Somerville would disagree with that characterization. In any case, it’s the end of an era, and the beginning of a new one.
For nearly seven years, I lived on the third floor of a beautiful brownstone on Newbury Street in Back Bay.
The center of my universe happened to be the block between Gloucester and Hereford Streets. Just around the corner from Tom Brady’s Comm Ave. condo at one point.
I have so many fond memories of this elegant neighborhood. I’m pretty sure I explored every inch of it over the years, and I loved what I saw every single day. I’ve seen many stores and restaurants come and go. Particularly on the corner of Gloucester. We’ll see how long Cafeteria lasts. I bet I’ve eaten more than 100 of gyros at Steve’s Greek Food. I”m not proud of this. 🙂 Similar to the amount of money I have paid in rent of the years, there are some numbers you should not think about.
I”ll miss the beautiful architecture and peaceful parks. Strolling along Newbury on a quiet Sunday evening or after a snow storm. Lighted trees during the Christmas holiday season. Great people watching. Convenient access to everything including the Esplande and the Boston Public Library which has a beautiful courtyard and a fine collection of art, maps and of course books. I’ll miss my regular visits to Lord & Taylor en route to Shaw’s.
Interestingly, after seven years, you know all of the panhandlers in the neighborhood, and you hope they are OK when not found in their usual spot. Some sing the same repetitive song such as the guy near CVS who sings, “Change, change, change, can anyone spare a little change, change, change.” Others just shake a cup. Most are middle aged men, but sadly, I’ve noticed younger people recently.
There are plenty of interesting characters in Back Bay. There is the artist that paints in front of Sonsi‘s wearing cut off jean shorts and usually nothing else in the Summer. There are the usual suspects at popular Back Bay watering holes. “Champagne Tony” to name one. Oh, there is a biker who emerges each spring and rides his trike down Newbury yelling moo-ve, moo-ve. Nobody really knows what he is saying, but they do know to get out of his way.
I’ll miss the annual Santa Speedo run in December. Men running in Speedos and Santa caps down Newbury Street. Yep. It’s a sight. Actually, women have joined the ranks in recent years. Not sure why they would subject themselves to such a spectacle.
Berklee’s graduation is pretty cool. The graduates parade around the block lead by a big band. I’ve always assumed it was Berklee, but I’m actually not sure.
My top five places for casual eats:
1) Piattini- great selection of salads, small plates of pasta and wine by the glass.
2) Trident cafe– Great place to read, people watch and have tea or another beverage of choice.
3) The Other Side Cafe- Decent sandwiches in a funky atmosphere.
4) Parrish Cafe- Regal Regis Sandwich is my favorite. Nice selection of food and drinks.
5) Bar Lola- for the outside deck and Sangria.
Mostly, I’ll miss being within walking distance to everything including many of my friends. Fortunately, I’m on the Red Line, and just a short trip away.
I look forward to exploring my new neighborhood, and I’ll write about my first impressions next.
Perouges France: A charming Medieval Village

Written from the heart.
The name of this ancient french city about 2o miles east of Lyon reminds me of Periogie, but that is likely due to my poor french pronunciation. Yes, I know better.
The day my friend Mary and I visited Perouges it was nearly deserted and eerily quiet. We arrived late morning mid-week, and we parked in an empty lot that is not doubt filled during tourist season. It was a cool spring day. At one point, rain quickly turned into snow flakes and then minutes later-nothing. Apparently, the weather there changes more quickly than in New England.
We walked along the cobblestone street past stone buildings. There were only a few other people strolling around. I felt as though we were sneaking around in forbidden territory, but a reverent town is best explored peacefully. I was grateful there weren’t droves of tourists to ruin the experience.You know how they are. 🙂
Perouge is small. I suspect about half the size of one city block in Boston.
There are a few shops, galleries and restaurants in the historic town. Only two restaurants and one shop were open during our visit. We stopped in the shop and spoke in broken French to the women working there. She said the season is off to a very slow start, and people are afraid to spend money due to the uncertainty of the economy. Being a brave American, I bought a few small items including a jar of jelly and post cards. She recommended that we have lunch at L’Ostellerie du Viex Perouges. It’s a Michelin rated restaurant. Apparently President Clinton ate there in the 90’s. Now, they can tell people that I ate there in 2009! 🙂
Lunch, as she warned us, was expensive at 40 euro/person, but reasonable when you consider it was 3 courses in a one-of-a-kind venue with excellent service . I had smoked duck with avocado, chicken with veggies. Their specialty dessert is galette pérugienne à la crème (the “pancake of Pérouges”). I realize chicken and duck sound boring, but I can’t recall the name of the sauce. Trust me, it was beyond fresh and flavorful. This region of France is known for gastronomy.
While the dessert looks like pizza crust, it’s not! It’s dough made with sugar, lemon, and butter. If that’s not fattening enough, the waitress arrived with a vat of creme and scooped a healthy portion onto the “pancake.” Not cool whip. 100% creme. It was so thick and buttery it looked like French vanilla ice-cream. I cried uncle! Could not eat another bite, but somehow I managed to eat the entire desert (a slice not the entire pancake). After all, I can’t have this dessert in Boston.

You see what I'm saying?
Oh, I should mention that at Noon, many people arrived in town to have lunch at the restaurant. All business men actually. Apparently, there is a car factory near by. Mary and I were the only two women eating at the restaurant. The other women worked there.
There were many impressive details to note from this lunch, but I think the wine list stands out. Not just for the fabulous selection of regional wines available, but specifically because it was hand written on a very large sheet of parchment paper. You can’t tell in this picture, but the wine list was about 3 ft x 2 ft. Check it out!

What a beautiful wine list!
It was a short day trip, but a very memorable experience. If you are in the area, I recommend a visit to Perouges.
Six Hours in Paris
Peter Shankman, of HARO fame, today asked subscribers for suggestions on where to stay/what to do with six hours in Paris. It’s one of my favorite cities, so I could not resist offering my recommendations.
I recently spent half a day in Paris on route from Lyon to London, so I know the dilemma well. I’ve been to Paris about 9 times, so I’ve seen all of the major sites and have visited many museums. I opted for a stroll which began at Rue St. Michel in the Latin Quarter. I stopped by the hotel where I usually stay to say hello to staff and to check my bag for the day. Eric, front desk clerk, has worked there for about 10 years, and it was nice to see a familiar face. I had not seen him for about 2 years. He told me that he had two heart attacks since my last visit. He is rethinking his priorities in life, and he said he may quit and pursue other paths. I mention this as a reminder to do what makes you happy. Life is short.
Anyway, I walked around the Latin Quarter, along the Seine to my favorite bridge, Pont Alexander, and then back along the Right Bank from the edge of Champs Elysees, past Place De La Concorde, through the Jardin Des Tuileries to the front of Musee du Louvre. From there I walked down Rue de Rivoli and over to Ile de Cite and then Ile St. Louis for Berthillion ice cream which I ate while listening to a man playing his accordion. Perfect!

Cafe in Paris
I spent the last two hours at a cafe across from Notre Dame. Enjoyed Bordeaux, food and people watching before I made my way to Gare Du Nord to catch the Eurostar to London. Believe it or not, my only purchase was the green scarf I’m wearing in the picture.
What would I recommend to others? There are a few considerations:
1) Is this your first trip? If so, pick three icons you always wanted to see. Skip the museums. You don’t have enough time.
2) What’s your temperament? Do you prefer to be active? Paris is a very walkable city. You can cover quite a distance by foot in a few hours. (TIP: The buses are very easy to use, and they are the same price as the metro. You can see more if you take a bus from one destination to another. )
3) What is the season? If it’s warm, enjoy the parks and outdoor seating. People watching is an art in Paris. If it’s cold, find a cafe with a view to sip coffee or wine, check out the fashion trends in Galeries Lafayette etc.
Sample itinerary for Peter:
*Go to Canal St. Martin. (Metro: Republique) This area is more bohemian than the Latin Quarter. Have lunch at Chez Prune, 71 quai de Valmy. After lunch, check out a few of the trendy shops in the area. Depending upon what direction you walk, there are several other metro stops.
From Canel St Martin, go to Montmartre if you haven’t been. It’s a bit touristy at Sacre Coeur, but it is the highest point in Paris, so you get a nice view of the city and you can stroll past the artists in the square and perhaps have a glass of wine.
Or, skip that and walk around the Marais. There will probably be musicians around the Place des Vosges.
Since it’s summer time, you simply must have Berthillion ice cream. Go to the shop on Ile St Louis behind Notre Dame cathedral.
If you haven’t seen the stained glass windows at Sainte Chappelle (Ile de la Cite), you must if it’s a sunny day. It’s a short stop: 20 minutes?
Enjoy! Paris is a beautiful city, and you’ll enjoy it no matter what you see or explore.
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